The Bullmastiff should be fed a premium quality dry dog food. Table scraps are not necessary to entice a Bullmastiff to eat; most will eat the dry food with just water added in about 30 seconds. Due to the amount a Bullmastiff eats, its food should be divided into two meals a day. Treats should be kept to a minimum to prevent the Bullmastiff from getting too heavy. A Bullmastiff's size at maturity is determined by genetics, not by how much he eats. As a breed prone to hip dysplasia, it is wise to keep a Bullmastiff on the lean side, especially as a puppy.

The Bullmastiff is a relatively inactive breed; it requires some exercise to keep it in condition and from preventing it from getting too fat. One 20-30 minute walk or play session a day is usually sufficient. Unlike dogs that were meant to run and hunt all day, which requires a lot of stamina, the Bullmastiff was meant to sit and wait for a poacher, then pounce on him quickly to hold him down. Therefore it is not a good idea to run or jog with a Bullmastiff; they have neither the build nor the stamina for it.

The Bullmastiff is basically an indoor dog; it does not do well in either extreme of weather. While it does enjoy the snow, it does not get a heavy coat, and in frigid weather should only be let outdoors for short periods of time. It is quite easy for a Bullmastiff to get frostbite on its less protected parts! Extreme care should be taken in warm climates or when the weather is hot. Like its relative, the Bulldog, the Bullmastiff does not fare well in the heat. In the summer months, only exercise your Bullmastiff in the cool parts of the day, early morning and after the sun has set. While air conditioning is not mandatory, the Bullmastiff should be kept still and allowed to lay on a cool surface, out of the sun, with plenty of water available on warm days. Bullmastiffs are especially prone to heat stroke; it is imperative that one be be extremely careful in warm weather.

Cancer is by far the biggest killer of Bullmastiffs. While cancer can strike in many forms, the most common in the breed are lymphosarcoma and mast cell tumors. Cancer is a hard disease to predict and an even harder one to prevent. And as the Bullmastiff is such a stoic breed, most often once the cancer is detected, the dog only has a few weeks left to live. It is said to be more predominant in some bloodlines, although I am not personally aware of any Bullmastiff bloodline that is free from this dreadful disease.

Because of its temperament and size, the Bullmastiff is a breed which requires early, consistent training, before becoming too large to handle. The Bullmastiff is a relatively smart dog, but a stubborn one, and will not do something just because it pleases you. Praise and food are perhaps the best incentives for training a Bullmastiff; punitive training rarely works and will only serve to make the dog angry. Along with training, the best thing you can do for your Bullmastiff is to socialize it, early and often, so that he or she develops into a reliable, confident and well-behaved dog.

As with most guard breeds, the Bullmastiff is not always tolerant of other dogs, and should always be introduced securely on leash. As a general rule, mature males do not get along with other males of any large guarding or working breed. Occasionally, females will not tolerate other females. If you are planning on having two Bullmastiffs, or other large working breeds, the best combination is one of each sex. Although there are exceptions, I would never recommend having two Bullmastiff males; you are looking for trouble if you do.

99% of the time, the Bullmastiff is an affectionate, laid back, sweet and loyal dog. Many who see a Bullmastiff playing with children or hanging out on the couch cannot believe that this dog can be anything but friendly. Always remember that although the Bullmastiff is not by nature an aggressive dog, this is a guard dog, and should be treated and respected as such.

For further information on the Bullmastiff temperament, check out the links section of this website.

Most Bullmastiffs are good with children if they are brought up with children and common sense is used. Never forget that while not an aggressive dog, the Bullmastiff is a guard dog, and will be protective of those he is guarding, particularly if they are children. If he fears your child is in danger, he will react. If other children are at your home and are running, screaming, wrestling or punching each other, the dog may not be able to distinguish whether those actions are serious or not. If he feels they are serious, he may try to interfere, and while not intending to, may inadvertently injure a child. The Bullmastiff should never be left unsupervised with other children and the dominant puppy in a Bullmastiff litter should NEVER be placed in a home with young children.

The appearance, or "type," of the Bullmastiff is described in the standard of the breed. Type is fundamental and indispensable to the purebred dog. To be able to distinguish the Bullmastiff from other breeds, that Bullmastiff must display obvious and distinctive features that make him recognizable at a glance as one of the breed

The design of the breed has been set down. When taking up the task of breeding Bullmastiffs, there is nothing new to invent. Breeding is merely the picking up of the threads of a genetic tapestry that has been woven by previous breeders. The breeder must breed to the existing standard. Interpretation of the standard by each breeder accounts for the differences in each strain, but ultimately and ideally, all dogs of a breed should look more alike than they look different. This is uniformity of breed type.

The following is the current American Bullmastiff standard, revised and approved in 1992.

Taken from "The Bullmastiff Handbook," compiled by Adele Pfenninger

Bullmastiff Standard

GENERAL APPEARANCE: That of a symmetrical animal, showing great strength, endurance and alertness; powerfully built but active. The foundation breeding was 60% Mastiff and 40% Bulldog. The breed was developed in England by game keepers for protection against poachers.

SIZE, PROPORTION, SUBSTANCE: SIZE-Dogs, 25 to 27 inches at the withers, and 110 to 130 pounds weight. Bitches, 24 to 26 inches at the withers, and 100 to 120 pounds weight. Other things being equal, the more substantial dog within these limits is favored. PROPORTION-The length from tip of breastbone to rear of thigh exceeds the height from withers to ground only slightly, resulting in a nearly square appearance.

HEAD: EXPRESSION-Keen, alert and intelligent. EYES-Dark and of medium size. EARS-V-shaped and carried close to the cheeks, set on wide and high, level with occiput and cheeks, giving a square appearance to the skull; darker in color than the body and medium in size. SKULL-large, with a fair amount of wrinkle when alert; broad, with cheeks well developed. Forehead flat. STOP-Moderate. MUZZLE-Broad and deep; its length, in comparison with that of the entire head, approximately as 1 is to 3. Lack of fore face is a reversion to the Bulldog and is very undesirable. A dark muzzle is preferred. nose-Black, with nostrils large and broad. FLEWS-Not too pendulous. BITE-Preferably level or slightly undershot.

NECK, TOPLINE, BODY: NECK-Slightly arched, of moderate length, very muscular, and almost equal in circumference to the skull. TOPLINE-Straight and level between withers an loin. BODY-compact. Chest wide and deep, with ribs well sprung and well set down between the forelegs. BACK-Short, giving the impression of a well-balance dog. LOIN-Wide, muscular and slightly arched, with fair depth of flank. TAIL-Set on high, strong at the root, and tapering to the hocks. it may be straight or curved, but never carried hound fashion.

FOREQUARTERS: SHOULDERS-Muscular but not loaded, and slightly sloping. FORELEGS-Straight, well boned and set well apart; elbows turned neither in nor out. PASTERNS-Straight, feet of medium size, with round toes well arched. Pads thick and tough, nails black.

HINDQUARTERS: Broad and muscular, with well developed thigh denoting power, but not cumbersome. Moderate angulation at hocks. cow hocks and splay feet are serious faults.

COAT: Short and dense, giving good weather protection.

COLOR: Red, fawn or brindle. Except for a very small white spot on the chest, white marking is considered a fault.

GAIT: Free, smooth and powerful. When viewed from the side, reach and drive indicate maximum use of the dog's moderate angulation. Back remains level and firm. Coming and going, the dog moves in a straight line. Feet tend to converge under the body, without crossing over, as speed increases. There is no twisting in or out at the joints.

TEMPERAMENT: Fearless and confident yet docile. The dog combines the reliability, intelligence and willingness to please required in a dependable family companion and protector.

Pictured: Ch. HappyLegs Miss Bigglesworth, aka "Betty."

 

The definition of temperament is that it is ones basic nature or disposition. Temperament is certainly not the same from breed to breed. Because of the work or purpose of each breed, the temperament of each breed varies. Dogs were developed with not only certain physical characteristics, but also mental characteristics for the work intended for them.

The Bullmastiff was bred as a guard, and has the temperament suited for that job. They are possessive, territorial, loyal dogs with an innate sense of who does and who doesn't belong on ones property. They seem impelled to stop intruders, yet are (or certainly should be) more than willing to accept those people accepted by their masters.

The Bullmastiff standard describes the breed temperament as "fearless and confident, yet docile. The dog combines the reliability, intelligence, and willingness to please required in a dependable family companion and protector."

If we follow the description of temperament in the standard, we are describing a dog that will have no hesitation in protecting what he considers his own (family, friends, territory), he is sure of his abilities to do so, and can be controlled without undo effort. He is a dog we can depend on to be consistent in his responses, bright enough to learn what we want, and willing to do what we ask, for whatever reason he attaches to that willingness.

Bullmastiffs, being the territorial, possessive creatures that they are, seem happy to do their guarding on any sized property. They are just fine as long as they understand their position in the family hierarchy, and that position is the proper one. The worst thing that can happen to a Bullmastiff is to belong to someone who is incapable of commanding that dog's obedience and respect. The dog is first AFTER ALL THE PEOPLE IN THE HOUSEHOLD.

THE BULLMASTIFF IS NOT THE BREED FOR EVERYONE. There is nothing wrong with the Bullmastiff being strong-willed, possessive and territorial. That is the breed's temperament. On the plus side, there are very few strong-willed dogs who are dumb. On the minus side, if this type of dog ends up with wishy-washy or inappropriate people, there is going to be a problem.

The Bullmastiff is a wonderful breed. Its temperament is ideal for its purpose in life. It needs a home where it is made to understand from the beginning (the second one takes possession) that it is loved, wanted and a part of the household, but as such will obey because that's the way life is. As with small children, security comes from knowing ones boundaries. A dog that understands its position in the pack (family) is secure and happy. It is a safe pet. It follows the lead of its family superiors.

A strong-willed, fearless and confident dog such as the Bullmastiff is a joy to own, if owned by someone worthy and capable of owning a dog of this temperament.

Taken from "Bullmastiff Temperament" by Carol Beans

Pictured: Ch. HappyLegs No Warning, aka "Bruiser."

 

Although not a long-lived dog, with proper exercise and nutrition, the Bullmastiff can live most of its life in good health. There are, however, conditions and ailments common in the breed. Regular veterinary visits, as well as an understanding of possible problems, will help your Bullmastiff live a healthy, happy life.

Pictured: Ch. Leatherneck Bit of HappyLegs, who lived to be twelve years of age. That's 108 in dog years!

Hip Dysplasia is is the most common cause of rear end lameness in the Bullmastiff. It is basically a problem in the structure of the hip joint. In a normal hip, the head of the femur (thigh bone) should lie solidly in the acetabulum (cup). In hip dysplasia, loose ligaments allow the head to begin to work free, causing a progressive degeneration of the joint.

Hip dysplasia is believed to be a heritable condition, although the mode of inheritance is not clear. At this point, it is impossible to completely eliminate the occurrence of hip dysplasia from ones breeding stock. However, most reputable breeders will x-ray any dogs used for breeding to lessen the chances of hip dysplasia from occurring in the offspring. An OFA or Penn-Hip number indicates the a dog has been x-rayed for hip dysplasia and has been found clear of the condition.

When purchasing a puppy, it is a good idea to obtain a written guarantee against hip dysplasia. While there is no true guarantee that the dog will be free of the condition, most breeders will replace the puppy or give a full refund should the dog develop HD.

As a Bullmastiff owner, keeping the pup lean, feeding a premium quality dog food, and making sure the dog has moderate exercise will lessen the chances of the dog developing hip dysplasia as an adult.

 

This condition causes the eyelid and lashes to roll inward causing irritation and possible ulcerization to the eyeball. It is commonly found in breeds with large heads and loose facial skin. Entropion can be effectively treated with surgery, although Bullmastiffs whose eyes have been surgically corrected cannot be shown in conformation and should not be used for breeding.

Bloat, or gastric torsion, is a life threatening disease that usually affects deep-chested breeds. Symptoms are excessive salivation and drooling, extreme restlessness, abdominal pain, attempts to vomit and defecate and abdominal distention. The dog basically looks as though he swallowed a watermelon, and whines and groans when his stomach wall is pushed. Immediate veterinary intervention is mandatory; the abdomen must be opened, and the twist unwound and tacked to prevent reoccurrence.

The causes and prevention of bloat are not widely agreed upon. Many feel that drinking excessively after eating, overeating, or taking vigorous exercise after a meal can lead to bloat. Some also believe that it may be somewhat genetic in nature, in that a weakness of the stomach lining that causes bloat can be inherited.